Straciatella with Spring Greens
An Italian soup, and one of the simplest, fastest, and most satisfying meals I know. It is my go-to on cold spring days when I need something quick and comforting.
An Italian soup, and one of the simplest, fastest, and most satisfying meals I know. It is my go-to on cold spring days when I need something quick and comforting.
For each person:
Roughly chop the greens. If they are very tender and thin, like spinach, set aside. If they are thicker and take longer to cook (Stridolo, Cima di Rapa) heat pan with 1-2 tsp of olive oil. When it's hot throw in the greens. Stir until they change color and become tender, then take off the heat.
Beat the eggs (and nutmeg if using) in a bowl and set aside.
Bring the broth to a simmer--occasional small bubbles but not a full boil.
Throw in the greens.
When it comes back to a simmer, pour in the beaten egg. As you pour in the eggs, stir the soup so that the egg cooks in shreds. If you use a spoon and stir slowly, you'll have larger shreds (see photo above.) If you use a whisk and stir quickly, it will be in smaller shreds or even grains (See photo below.)
You may add lemon zest or juice before serving if you like and parsley if you have it.
Finish with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese in each bowl, and serve with crusty bread on the side.
Short Cuts:
If you want a quick meal with fewer dishes to wash, you can do this in one pot:
Saute your greens in olive oil for a minute or two (if they need it) right in the saucepan. Then put in the broth and bring to a simmer.
You can even break the egg straight into the pot once it's simmering. If you do, you'll have separate white and yellow shreds in the soup, which is what you'll see in the photo above. (I was hungry and in a hurry.)
Eggs are still a cheap protein, but you can of course leave them out and use more cheese or throw in leftover meat, beans, or fish. Crumbled tofu will give the same texture as eggs. If using tofu, mix with 1 tsp olive oil and a grated garlic clove while the broth heats.
Long Cuts:
Like Pasta Carbonara (which also uses quickly-cooked eggs to make a simple meal,) the original peasant soup has sometimes been gentrified with other ingredients and techniques. Versions exist with white wine added to the greens, with flour or cream added to the eggs, and with breadcrumbs in the soup. If you like, you can do that, but really, the essence of this dish is that it uses 3 or 4 household staples to make a quick meal for hungry people. It is often the first thing that invalids are given to eat (in that case, minus the greens) and is often used to feed a hungry child or someone needing a meal late at night.
- 2 cups broth
- 1 egg
- 1 handful greens-Spinach, Stridolo, Cima di Rapa, Pea shoots, Endive, etc
- 1 Tbsp Parmesan cheese
- 1 Tbsp parsley, minced (optional)
- a grating of nutmeg or lemon zest (optional)
Roughly chop the greens. If they are very tender and thin, like spinach, set aside. If they are thicker and take longer to cook (Stridolo, Cima di Rapa) heat pan with 1-2 tsp of olive oil. When it's hot throw in the greens. Stir until they change color and become tender, then take off the heat.
Beat the eggs (and nutmeg if using) in a bowl and set aside.
Bring the broth to a simmer--occasional small bubbles but not a full boil.
Throw in the greens.
When it comes back to a simmer, pour in the beaten egg. As you pour in the eggs, stir the soup so that the egg cooks in shreds. If you use a spoon and stir slowly, you'll have larger shreds (see photo above.) If you use a whisk and stir quickly, it will be in smaller shreds or even grains (See photo below.)
You may add lemon zest or juice before serving if you like and parsley if you have it.
Finish with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese in each bowl, and serve with crusty bread on the side.
Short Cuts:
If you want a quick meal with fewer dishes to wash, you can do this in one pot:
Saute your greens in olive oil for a minute or two (if they need it) right in the saucepan. Then put in the broth and bring to a simmer.
You can even break the egg straight into the pot once it's simmering. If you do, you'll have separate white and yellow shreds in the soup, which is what you'll see in the photo above. (I was hungry and in a hurry.)
Eggs are still a cheap protein, but you can of course leave them out and use more cheese or throw in leftover meat, beans, or fish. Crumbled tofu will give the same texture as eggs. If using tofu, mix with 1 tsp olive oil and a grated garlic clove while the broth heats.
Long Cuts:
Like Pasta Carbonara (which also uses quickly-cooked eggs to make a simple meal,) the original peasant soup has sometimes been gentrified with other ingredients and techniques. Versions exist with white wine added to the greens, with flour or cream added to the eggs, and with breadcrumbs in the soup. If you like, you can do that, but really, the essence of this dish is that it uses 3 or 4 household staples to make a quick meal for hungry people. It is often the first thing that invalids are given to eat (in that case, minus the greens) and is often used to feed a hungry child or someone needing a meal late at night.
Spinach alla Romana
Wash the spinach well. Melt some butter in a pan and saute a handful of pine nuts, while you soak a handful of raisins in warm water. Take out the pine nuts and set them aside. Throw the spinach, still wet, into the butter in the pan. When the bottom leaves wilt, stir the spinach, add the drained raisins, and cover the pan. Cook 5 minutes, mix well, add salt and pepper if desired, and serve.
Wash the spinach well. Melt some butter in a pan and saute a handful of pine nuts, while you soak a handful of raisins in warm water. Take out the pine nuts and set them aside. Throw the spinach, still wet, into the butter in the pan. When the bottom leaves wilt, stir the spinach, add the drained raisins, and cover the pan. Cook 5 minutes, mix well, add salt and pepper if desired, and serve.
Pasta with Greens
1 ¼ lb greens--You can use arugula, chicory, cima di rapa, wild greens, stridolo, kale, broccoli, mustard, or any leafy greens, either singly or mixed.
1 lb pasta (orecchiette is traditional in the south; shells or fettuccine work well.)
⅓ c olive oil or butter
5 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 or 2 chili peppers if desired, or pinch of black pepper
Pinch of salt, Large pot of water, and a large frying pan
Cut the greens in strips, or cut the broccoli into small florets. Put water on to boil. Plunge the greens into the boiling water, and cook until bright green but still crisp. Take the greens out with a slotted spoon, or drain the greens and keep the water. Bring the water back to a boil and cook the pasta as usual. While the pasta cooks, heat the olive oil in the pan and warm the garlic and pepper in it. Remove the peppers. Add the greens, and take off the fire when they are warmed through and tender. When the pasta is done, drain well, and add to the pan along with the greens and oil. If there is not room, use a large bowl. Combine the greens, oil, cheese, and pasta, as well as a tablespoon of the cooking water. Stir them all well to amalgamate the cheese, oil, and water into a sauce.
Opitional: you can leave in the peppers, or use pepper flakes. You can put anchovies into the oil along with the garlic, and stir well before proceeding with the greens.
1 ¼ lb greens--You can use arugula, chicory, cima di rapa, wild greens, stridolo, kale, broccoli, mustard, or any leafy greens, either singly or mixed.
1 lb pasta (orecchiette is traditional in the south; shells or fettuccine work well.)
⅓ c olive oil or butter
5 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 or 2 chili peppers if desired, or pinch of black pepper
Pinch of salt, Large pot of water, and a large frying pan
Cut the greens in strips, or cut the broccoli into small florets. Put water on to boil. Plunge the greens into the boiling water, and cook until bright green but still crisp. Take the greens out with a slotted spoon, or drain the greens and keep the water. Bring the water back to a boil and cook the pasta as usual. While the pasta cooks, heat the olive oil in the pan and warm the garlic and pepper in it. Remove the peppers. Add the greens, and take off the fire when they are warmed through and tender. When the pasta is done, drain well, and add to the pan along with the greens and oil. If there is not room, use a large bowl. Combine the greens, oil, cheese, and pasta, as well as a tablespoon of the cooking water. Stir them all well to amalgamate the cheese, oil, and water into a sauce.
Opitional: you can leave in the peppers, or use pepper flakes. You can put anchovies into the oil along with the garlic, and stir well before proceeding with the greens.
Using Bitter Greens
Escarole, Endive, Chicory, Radicchio, Dandelion Leaves, Wild Greens
Perennials like dandelions and chicory have a have some bitterness, like walnuts or beer. All are very good for the digestion, and are often served with pork or rich dishes to make them more digestible. If you find them too bitter, soak in ice water (or a bowl of water in the fridge) for a few hours and you will find it lessened. All bitter greens (as well as artichokes and cardoons) are very good for the liver and help your body to digest fats.
Here are some traditional ways to serve them:
Escarole, Endive, Chicory, Radicchio, Dandelion Leaves, Wild Greens
Perennials like dandelions and chicory have a have some bitterness, like walnuts or beer. All are very good for the digestion, and are often served with pork or rich dishes to make them more digestible. If you find them too bitter, soak in ice water (or a bowl of water in the fridge) for a few hours and you will find it lessened. All bitter greens (as well as artichokes and cardoons) are very good for the liver and help your body to digest fats.
Here are some traditional ways to serve them:
- As a salad. Soak in ice water to make them very crisp, dry well, and serve with a tart vinaigrette dressing. Capers, anchovies, shaved fennel, onion, and mint leaves are some traditional additions. Radicchio is especially tasty and beautiful combined with Mache which is mild and almost flowery, a nice contrast.
- With pork chops or other meat: While the meat is cooking, boil the leaves until blanched or wilted but still bright. Drain very well. When the meat is done, set it aside to rest and throw the wilted greens into the fat and juices in the pan. Cook briefly and serve with lemon. Also traditional chopped and added to chicken soup or risotto.
- Cooked on its own: Wash the greens or shoots and cut into pieces. Heat a pan, cover the bottom with olive oil. Or dice up some bacon, pancetta, or salt pork and cook until the fat begins to run. Simmer 2 cloves of garlic (and 1 or 2 small hot peppers if desired) in the oil until the garlic just begins to color. Throw in the wet greens, along with ½ cup water and a pinch of salt. Simmer for 10 minutes. The water should evaporate, leaving a pan of tender greens or shoots in a savory sauce.